(8th January 2025)

It was a chilly 0°C on Tuesday, the 7th, when I walked into town for my 9:30 a.m. six-month dentist appointment. After a couple of X-rays, an appointment was made for February to repair a tooth the dentist said had a small crack developing (though I remain unconvinced). Everything dental seemed fine to me.

Upon returning home, I found Sue making the most of a rare sunny day with a line of washing hanging outside. I set about filling the log bin in preparation for my departure later that afternoon, ensuring Sue would have enough wood to keep the burner going while I was away for the week.

Jamie arrived at Willow Bank at 3.30 pm, and it took just over two hours to drive to Terminal 5 at Heathrow Airport. We navigated security and were soon enjoying the Aspire Lounge, courtesy of Jamie’s American Express Card perks. After several beers, a plate of cheese salad, and then a chicken curry, the gate number for our 8.20 pm British Airways flight to Dubai was announced. We embarked on a lengthy walk, followed by a train ride and yet another long walk, before finally boarding the aircraft. Jamie took his ‘privileged’ seat at the front, while I made my way to ‘cattle class’ at the rear. Fortunately, I had an aisle seat in a row of four, with just one other traveller at the opposite end. I watched a film before dinner was served, then fidgeted my way through broken sleep until the six-hour flight was over.

I reunited with Jamie en route to passport control, and before long, we were sitting near the terminal exit awaiting the arrival of our hire car. By the time the paperwork was completed, it was 9 am Dubai time, with six hours to kill before we could access the apartment Jamie had booked.

Our first stop, through heavy city traffic, was the Jumeirah Mosque. One of Dubai’s most visited tourist attractions, the mosque opened in 1979 as a gift from the late Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum, former Ruler of Dubai and father of the current ruler, HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. We paid for a tour and an explanation of the Islamic faith. At 10 am, along with a dozen others, we embarked on an excellent excursion led by a knowledgeable English-speaking guide. Eight members of our party, including Jamie, took part in the cleansing ritual before entering the mosque, as devout Muslims do five times daily.

From the mosque, we drove to a small city beach, where it became clear that Dubai is undergoing a vast construction initiative. Much of our journey felt like driving through an enormous building site, far from completion. The road network suggests this is not a pedestrian-friendly city; Dubai, like many others, is ruled by the motor car.

Next, we visited one of the most bizarre places I have ever encountered, the Miracle Garden. According to its promotional material, the garden invites visitors to “immerse themselves in a world of botanical beauty.” Spanning a vast area, it showcases over 150 million flowers arranged in intricate designs and patterns. From heart-shaped archways to a grand floral castle, the displays are undeniably stunning, perhaps too stunning. When money and resources are no object, you can create attractions like this. “Over-the-top” barely does it justice. We spent an hour exploring features such as Smurf Village, enormous horse heads, swirling floral figures, a life-size aircraft, and gigantic penguins. It’s pure extravagance, flowers everywhere in a desert kingdom. Perhaps that’s the point.

By the afternoon, it was time to head to our accommodation for the week. After navigating through construction debris, machinery, and streams of traffic, we arrived at the Azure Residences on The Palm. This stylish waterfront development on the eastern shoreline of Palm Jumeirah boasts luxury beachfront apartments and dining options with unparalleled views across the Arabian Gulf, Palm Jumeirah, and Dubai’s iconic landmarks. And indeed, it lives up to its description.

With an hour and a half to spare, we enjoyed drinks and a grilled chicken salad at a beachfront restaurant before taking a forty-minute walk along one of the fronds of the man-made Palm Jumeirah. The sheer scale of this project is remarkable, a testament to what can be achieved with imagination, limitless resources, and considerable financial backing. It’s a bustling place, both on and off the water, and well-loved by residents and visitors alike. Opulent with a capital ‘O’, yet I find myself more at home in the villages of Madagascar, the fishing settlements of Greenland, and the people and churches of Ethiopia.

Our apartment was modern and luxurious, offering stunning views over the Palm and towards the Old City, with the Burj Khalifa visible from practically everywhere. After unpacking, I fell asleep on the bed while Jamie dozed on the veranda. As night fell, I opted to stay in our swanky accommodation, watching the world pass by from our sixth-floor vantage point. Jamie ventured to the harbour for dinner and sightseeing. There was a time I might have done the same after such a journey, but perhaps those days are behind me. He returned just after 9 pm, having watched a spectacular light display in the sky over the harbour performed by drones. He also mentioned that his meal was very disappointing.